Author Topic: Clutch arm spindle S/A A7  (Read 3438 times)

Online KiwiGF

  • Last had an A10 in 1976, in 2011 it was time for my 2nd one. It was the project from HELL (but I learned a lot....)
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Re: Clutch arm spindle S/A A7
« Reply #15 on: 06.09. 2013 07:08 »
Pete, another thought, the metal plates can be so unflat they act almost like springs and cause drag, my bike came with new plates just 1 mm thick which i had to junk as they were so obviously not flat!

i then bought surflex metal plates which were 1.6mm thick from memory and new surflex friction plates and they work fine.
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash  (1st finished project)
1949 B31 rigid “400cc”  (2nd finished project)
1968 B44 Victor Special (3rd finished project)
2001 GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it
2009 KTM 990 Adventure, cos it’s 100% nuts

Online bsa-bill

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Re: Clutch arm spindle S/A A7
« Reply #16 on: 06.09. 2013 08:53 »
Quote
plates can be so unflat

Good point KiwiGF, I've had this with  a couple of bent plates .
Somehow I thought Pete had installed new plates, think I'm getting mixed up with another post here.

Pete - you need a good flat surface to lay the plates on individually and see if any of them rock or put two plates together, turn one against the other then reverse one and repeat should show up any bent ones 
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline duTch

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Re: Clutch arm spindle S/A A7
« Reply #17 on: 06.09. 2013 10:03 »


G'day Pete, as per B-Bills' photo, with a lever fulcrum travel of 3/32" (that's between Bills and Trevs) I have a push rod movement at the clutch end of about 3mm (1/8"), which I measured a while ago for curiosity.
  Just as an experiment, the other day for entertainment,(as is done *eek*) I screwed my 6 spring adjuster screws full in(what I'd call 'spring-bound'), and no great surprise, but had no or very little clutch release.
 Might pay to check your spring specs- length, spring wire thickness, number of windings, and O.D.
 When I'm adjusting mine, I've been holding lever full in with a (~2")hose clamp and in gear spin the R-Wheel, and see if pressure plate has runout, adjust accordingly.Changes each time, but probably as the pushrod doesn't necessarily sit true centre on the rod each time.

   Plunger A10, but same principles....?  running 5 friction, maybe 5 plain (plus the thick one?)

 Dunno if that's any help, but good luck, cheers duTch

  Ps, did the cup of tea thing in the past, works a treat- then I found the big hammer solution-....naaah, just jokin'

 Also, I found this 'No Worries Tea' in the shop one day, also works a treat, good as any bigger hammer, but not easy to find- it's a Koala thing .....


Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline Pete Gray

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Re: Clutch arm spindle S/A A7
« Reply #18 on: 06.09. 2013 12:03 »

I use 1-1/16" levers and the dreaded 6 spring clutch works perfectly.
Trev.

Many thanks for that Trev, I think you may have cracked it ! The brake lever is 1 1/16" the clutch lever is, guess what, 7/8" fulcrum.
All I need now is to source a replacement lever and hope for the best!

Brilliant work as ever guys, what a team.

Pete

1961 Swinging arm A7
2000 BMW R1100R

Offline Pete Gray

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Re: Clutch arm spindle S/A A7
« Reply #19 on: 12.09. 2013 11:45 »
Got a new lever from FEKED.com with 1 1/16" fulcrum.
I reassembled the clutch with special attention to tensioning the 6 springs, fitted the new lever and, at last, what looks to be a result with the clutch releasing fully and neutral selecting at a standstill.
Just a matter of getting the casing back on now, filling the G/box and primary to level and who knows .......... ?

Thanks again for the advice guys.

Pete

1961 Swinging arm A7
2000 BMW R1100R