I gave up on O rings years ago and never looked back.
You still can not tighten the carb too much as it has to be able t move relative to the head to compensate for different expansions.
Eades in NSW started to stock a 1/8" composite gasket which works very well.
The iron heads don't need the insulator due to Cast Iron's poor thermal conductivity, but what you want to be very careful of is not to overtighten the flange nuts. These will warp the carb body and make the slide stick. I install split lockwashers and tighten them just to the point where the flatten out, no more.
Try that line on the side valvers and see how far you get.
The old iron headed bikes had long aluminium inlets principally to keep the fuel cool.
I have a 1" spacer ( off my WD B40 ) on my WM20, a 1/4" tuffnol gasket and I can still boil the fuel in a 626 concentric.
As to types of carbs.
The best by far are the monoblocks. They are a far more precise instrument than any of the others and offer far more tuneing oppertunities.
Concentrics are the most robust and easy to use, They will run ( badly) over such a wide range of maladjustments with foul fuel, blocked idle jets and ovalled needle jets it is not funny .
I have seen concentrics with slides so badly worn that the owners had jets 3 to 4 sizes larger to compensate . Don't even think of trying that with any other type of carby.
Where possible I do fit Concentrics to my bikes because I like to ride more than wrench and do not get in a tizzy if I am not getting 110% out of my Beesa, part are plentiful and cheap and they are easier to tune than just about any thing else.
Others I know fit Monos excluseivly and go to the extent of filing down slides to get 1/4 incriments instead of the usual 1/2's.
It is horses for courses