Author Topic: Wanted: BSA A10 PLUNGER 1954 con rods  (Read 626 times)

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Re: Wanted: BSA A10 PLUNGER 1954 con rods
« Reply #15 on: 08.02. 2025 01:58 »
Hang on guys, it wasn't me looking as such, the OP said he needed new rods and I merely mentioned a recent post I'd seen from Seager Eng regarding some new rods for Trumpy 750's from Hepolite. My intention was purely to impart info not to make any recommendations, and currently my rods are still OK...as far as I can tell...until it goes bang!

Which leads me to a point here. The way I see it, these bikes are not getting any younger and we know the accumulation of fatigue stress cycles in aluminium alloy is something that can build up over the years with no outward signs of distress until one day boom a rod lets go.  Every missed gear, slight over rev, changing down instead up etc. may not cause a failure at the time but it does add to the fatigue bill that ultimately might result in a catastrophic failure, without warning.  I know they can be refurbished to an extent, crack detected, polished, resized...resized that's a good one. Why would they need resizing? Because they've stretched that's why, its not wear, its movement! Either taken past their elastic limit resulting in permanent deformation or slow creep either way it ain't good!

There is no way of knowing even with x-ray etc. unless a crack exists. So all these old units are essentially ticking time bombs in this regard.  These bikes were never originally conceived to last 70 years plus and I see the alloy rods as one of the weak areas where it is probably worth renewing, if you have your engine down, rather than substituting someone else's previously enjoyed unknowns into the mix.  Just my 2c and we all have to make our own decisions on this but if I was doing my engine again from scratch, I'd be going for new rods.

Meanwhile until that day comes, I'll try not to think about it too much, have fun and ride sympathetically.
Ian
59 GF A10
67 Spitfire under resto
2013 kwaka W800 Desert Sled (ex write off)

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Re: Wanted: BSA A10 PLUNGER 1954 con rods
« Reply #16 on: 08.02. 2025 04:23 »
G'day Fellas.
I bought my 1957 A7SS in 1990 to road race. I checked and polished the rods, shaved the head & barrels and flogged the bejezzus out of it. Wanting more I used T150 pistons and shortened the rods about 1mm to get her up to 14:1 and regularly saw 7500rpm. Raced like that for another 5 years. She snapped a few cranks and lifted a few barrels but never broke a rod.
When she grew up to an A10 and went on the road she got RR rods.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

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Re: Wanted: BSA A10 PLUNGER 1954 con rods
« Reply #17 on: 08.02. 2025 07:28 »


................So - 300 squid for sorting 60 year old bits as well as 60 yr old bits can be sorted by a very competent shop, or 100 more for brand new  . . . Not a difficult decision.

or £40 for a perfectly good second hand pair?!
[/quote]

Oh Boy! 40 squid for a decent pair's great CB. That wasn't the issue.
I was responding to Rex' query as to whether Lightning rods were or weren't an option, and how much. 
Then explained why I went that way on that occasion, given that in the case in question the rods weren't up to much and there was no 'good value option from reputable source' (like from you).

A decent pair at 40 smackers is obviously good. Rectifying a damaged pair at a cost in the case I referred to of 75% of new Thunders wasn't worth it imho. Had anyone come up with an option like you're offering here I'd have been tempted, of course. But decent bits you can trust  for some other marques aren't so plentiful sadly. BON was looking at options. Rex referred to one. I followed up, is all.

---------------------

Psst - anyone want any of these crankshafts  . . . . take yer pick from the pile! Free to collector, all need work - and new rods!
[/quote]

Hi Groily. I wasn't suggesting you were contradicting! I just thought that my offer of £40 for a pair had been overlooked by all those posting. I agree that the Lightning rods are the best, but I've never had an issue with BSA rods in a low-stress engine (which all standard A10's are). The only time I've heard of BSA rods failing is when something else has failed first, like a seizure caused by bad lubrication or a bike being run with battered big ends. I'd suggest in those circumstances, the Lightning rods might fail as well.... or would you trust them afterwards? I can't see the point of spending that sort of money if good, original rods are available. In the absence of any rods at all, I'd definitely buy the Lightning rods.

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Re: Wanted: BSA A10 PLUNGER 1954 con rods
« Reply #18 on: 08.02. 2025 07:33 »
Quote
or £40 for a perfectly good second hand pair?!
But can they be guarunteed to be absolutely free of defects and fit for further use? I'm no spendthrift, but I know what I would opt for.
I would suggest that at least 90% of A10's on the road are running with standard rods, and, as stated previously, I've never heard of rod failure unless prompted by a failure elsewhere in the motor. I agree, the Lightning rods are superb, but I have every confidence in original rods. Regarding guarantees on second - hand stuff, yes, of course I'll guarantee them.....provided the buyer is willing to pay about £250, and the guarantee excludes failures prompted by poor maintenance, failures elsewhere in the engine, or thrashing the bike to death (improper use), and fitting other than by a qualified engineer. I think you'll find that these are the provisos contained within the guarantees of new rods provided by modern manufacturers.

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Re: Wanted: BSA A10 PLUNGER 1954 con rods
« Reply #19 on: 08.02. 2025 10:45 »
    I'll endorse CB's take on guarantee and warranty.  The small print of even brand new modern vehicles will exclude most of the hazzards experienced in everyday use, and any assurance of a come back goes out of the window if you actually start, run and move it under it's own power. As for aftermarket warranty products you can bet the very thing that fails is something that is specifically excluded.

   But back to those rods. Unless the bike is going round the world, a good used pair of rods will be perfectly fine for leisure riding, in standard trim these engines are not highly stressed. If there is a choice, a good pair will be undamaged, straight, have matching caps, and have good small end bushes. No nicks or gouges and a polished pair is even better. Also look for fretting where the tab on the big end shells locate.

  With luck the small end bush will be a good fit for the piston pin, and they will come with a good set of bolts. Whether you change these is another debate, but over the years with earlier non lock type nuts, I have re used these with no problems. Locking nut variants dig into the thread, and this adds to the dilemma. New old stock rods at a reasonable price followed by a discarded pair of rods with close numbers complete with shells to fit your crank from some poor soul's stalled renovation is perhaps a tall order, but a good compromise.

 Cheapskate Swarfy.