Over reving a Trihard T120R

[groily]

The flakes of molten piston got absolutely everywhere even into the cranks sludge trap
John

That would be my worry. Maybe just my paranoia, but for peace of mind I'd feel obliged to hoick the crank, get the rods off (measuring sticks at the ready),  flush everything out to within an inch of its life, etc, just to be sure. Time-consuming, carries the cost of extra consumables and maybe more if the journals have suffered or if shells are replaced while it's apart. But not I think a waste of effort even if there's nothing to see.
(I say this because a long long time ago I seized a piston on an A10 and particles had got pretty well everywhere just as John describes. 'Paranoia''s been my middle name ever since.)

[limeyrob]

I too have seized an A10, the piston sized, pulled a skirt off the block then reduced it to flakes by hitting it repeatedly with the big ends.  I felt the engine tighten and hit the clutch very fast so all the damage happened in a second or two.  I was still able to rebuild it and its still going now but it took a case repair, replacement cylinder, rods pistons and a lot of cleaning.
Good call about the petrol taps, easy to overlook the flow at full throttle.  I see there's a mod for Concentrics to up the flow through the float valve.

[muskrat]

  I see there's a mod for Concentrics to up the flow through the float valve.

G'day Rob.
I used that mod on my A7SS racer. At 11 MPG on methanol I could have run the fuel hoses straight into the inlet tract
Cheers

[limeyrob]

run the fuel hoses straight into the inlet tract.  Isn't that called a Wal Phillips Injector?

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas.
Had a real good look at the barrels today. It looks to me like the barrels cracked first studying the wear marks. As I said the flange nuts weren't tight but the head steady was. Vibes/flex too much right wrist  What I have noticed the outer wall thickness is thinner on that side. Sort of worries me of boring s/hand barrels to +60.
I know from machining castings/forgings their not exactly the same and when set up on the horizontal borer may be a mm or so off. Or like I said using the head surface to bore instead of the flange.
Cheers

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas.
I forgot to mention, I pulled the crank flywheel bolt that holds the sludge trap, used my endoscope to see there is phu(k all in there. I then back flushed with oil then air. Nothing came out I wouldn't put on a sandwich
Cheers

[muskrat]

G'day Fellas.
It lives, but not without a few problems.
It started first kick (no smoke) so I quickly set the timing (Boyer). Ran it through a few heat cycles and set about balancing and tuning the carbs. Got them pretty close. Let it cool down and set the tappets, 3 & 5 thou. Started again first kick. Ran for about 3-4 minutes and I heard a tink and she stopped. Bugga the right side ex valve had stuck open kissing the piston  "Off with his head". Ordered two new guides & valves. Heated the head in the BBQ to 250C and the guides in the freezer for 1/2 hour. Old guides didn't take much persuasion to drop out, the new guides fell in most of the way and took a couple of whacks to seat home. Left side lapped in good but the right needed cutting. I don't have seat cutters so took it up to Bathurst. His cutters wouldn't reach the seats as the guides are too long. OK back to the BBQ, drop them back out and take 3mm off the port end. Drop them in again and back to Bathurst. This time the seats were cut and back home to lap them in.
All back together and started first kick. Again ran it through a few heat cycles. Took it off the bench and ran around the block a few times. Bloody oil leak, I couldn't tell if it was primary or gearbox so I raided the pantry. Food color to the rescue, red in primary, blue in gearbox  Give it a good wash and took it out for a good 60Km ride up too 120KPH in spots. No color to be seen. Must have been a dry seal that needed a good flogging. Changed all the oil (that food coloring is a bugga to get off the hands!). Took it out for another run of about 80Km, motor feels great. As it only has an oil pressure light, I bought a gauge to check. Hot at 2500rpm reading 60psi so I'm happy. Rang owner to take it away. Cost all up $1000.
Cheers