SRM oil pump

[a101960]

I have just bought an SRM oil pump. What is entailed in fitting it? Is it a simple job or are there any pitfalls or complications? If anyone has done this job did you use the SRM supplied fixings or retain the original BSA studs? I'm sorry if this question is daft, but I' not at all a competent mechanic.

[CheeserBeezer]

The SRM pump should be supplied as a complete kit which includes the crankshaft worm drive, screws and gasket. I would advise removing the old pump and worm together, similarly fitting the new pump and worm together, jiggling the worm bit by bit as the pump goes on. The pump is supplied with cap head screws which I don't like but, as these are only going to be tightened up once, maybe that's OK. It may be that the screws supplied are a better fit in the pump body and are less inclined to allow the pump to travel away from the worm drive. The gasket supplied is a quality, one-piece item, so you don't need to fit a fibre washer under the spindle end of the pump. Basically, it's an easy swap and an improvement. Don't forget that the crankshaft nut and worm are left hand thread.

[Colsbeeza]

Also check that the inner cover is flat so the pump won't leak around the gasket. I trial-bolted mine in place without the gasket and checked for any gaps under the pump.
Col

[chaterlea25]

Hi A10,
Even with the supplied Allen screws which makes fitting easier as you do not need  to wind in the worm gear at the same time you need to be careful that the worm and drive gear have a little clearance between them.
 The screws still allow a certain amount of movement

John

[Swarfcut]

 Make sure the crankcase blind mounting holes are clear and if using the cap screws, check that these to not bottom before clamping down the new pump. While it's off, treat the anti wet sump valve to a good dose of carb cleaner, preferably while the valve is pressed open. Surplus cleaner should be ejected, along with any carbonised oil and other deposits. Purists would remove the PRV and blow through the feed to the timing bush, which exits into the PRV cavity central hole.

 I'd clean out the oil tank while the pump is off, blow through feed and return lines. Finally prime the oil gallery to the timing bush where you've just sprayed, prime the pump, allow it to drain a little before wiping the mating faces clear and assembling with the new gasket. Being an SRM product, all gasket holes should be in the right place and the right size.......

 Swarfy.

[a101960]

Thank you all for your response. It has been very helpful

[sean]

make sure you have the pump primed and oil coming out of the return line before you fire it up