Chrome headlamp brackets

[Sunbeam]

Hi. Changing my RGS to touring trim and fitting chrome headlamp brackets. On using the correct fork puller tool, i pulled each leg into the top yolk so that the fork leg internal threads could be seen at the top. On checking the brackets I noticed the chrome had began to blister on one on the underside of the top yolk, I would have thought BSA would have used something like a rubber seating washer to prevent this happening or am I pulling the fork legs up too much...i.e. i should have pulled each leg in half way then tightened home with the fork nut spanner. Any comments gratefully received.

Regards.

Howard.

[limeyrob]

I don't think they touch.  The fork stanchions slide in the bottom yoke and the headlamp brackets are loose until the clamp bolts are done up.  The top yoke is free to move up and down on the sleeve on the spindle with the clamp nut undone.  The steering head bearings are set by the sleeve nut and locked by the dome nut.  I don't think the top yoke has to be pulled down hard.  The key is to get the stanchions parallel and the same height.  There's no significant up or down load on the stanchions.

[Swarfcut]

   On a pair of legs to hand, the top of the leg passes through the top hole of a lamp bracket. Here the leg has parallel sides, and there is no restriction on movement. The marginal increase in diameter where the lower yoke fits is a good 35mm, top to bottom, more than the thickness of the lower yoke clamps, so scope for up or down variance, the critical part will be the distance between the yokes, a function of production variation, and to a degree the type and condition of the head bearings.

 Finally the new headlamp brackets may not be quite right, but using original parts in my experience a nice snug fit is usually obtained. Worst case has been a tiny gap between the underside of the top yoke and the top edge of the shroud/headlamp bracket. Slotting the clamp holes in the shrouds fixed this....

 Swarfy

[limeyrob]

This question has got me thinking.  I do not tighten the top yoke onto the top of the upper steering head bearing.  I tighten the sleeve nut, get the stanchions so the parallel part sits nicely in the bottom yoke clamps (approx centred vertically but certainly equal to each other) and set the top yoke just clear of the bearing. This means I can adjust the play on the steering head by only loosening the dome nut and clamp, not disturbing the stanchions.  Bear in mind the BSA design allows you to take off the top yoke without disturbing the steering head adjustment.

I've always assumed this was the right way but I quick search of the Service Sheets has turned up no info.

On my bike the headlamp brackets have been cut short by a PO ( ) by 2" to enable clip-ons to be fitted so they are well clear of the top yoke.

[Swarfcut]

  No wonder the Service Sheet produced a blank...Sheet 713 is remarkable for it's simplicity and looks a dead cert for ball bearings everywhere, fork legs and front wheel in one hand and a cry for help, plus a big dent in the tank top!

 I've always set the bearings with just the bottom yoke, dust cover and adjuster sleeve. Then spread the top yoke pinch and drive
 the yoke down onto the dust cover. So Rob's method has its merits, but adjusting the sleeve with the top yoke in place I would consider not to be as easy in practice, mine have always been tough to shift.

 I can see that the top yoke does not have to be on the dust cover, and this method certainly takes care of overlength headlamp brackets, I just prefer the top yoke to add additional support to the top bearing cone.

 Swarfy.

[Sunbeam]

Thanks for all your comments, really appreciate the advice from your experience as there is a limited amount of info in the workshop manuals out there. The headlamp brackets were bought new so there could be size discrepancies. I took the clubman brackets off as I thought the chrome touring looked better. My RGS was dispatched in 1962 in touring trim and went for a train ride to Cundles in Liverpool.

Many thanks.

Howard.