Author Topic: Re: A 10 K2F manual advance  (Read 208 times)

Offline mike.loehr

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Re: A 10 K2F manual advance
« on: 04.03. 2025 16:32 »
New to magnetos,does this manual adjustment look normal?Moving the lever does not move the cam ring.If the ring is frozen do I remove the contact assy from mag body or is there an easy fix.
Appreciate the help

Online Bsareg

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Re: A 10 K2F manual advance
« Reply #1 on: 04.03. 2025 17:42 »
I can't see any movement on the camring. Can you feel any resistance to movement on the lever ? There shouldn't be much, and the lever should move around less than a quarter turn. If more, check if cable is broken.
Helston, Cornwall C11,B40,B44 Victor,A10,RGS,M21,Rocket3,REBSA

Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: A 10 K2F manual advance
« Reply #2 on: 04.03. 2025 17:56 »
Penetrating oil around the ring and tap it with your toffee hammer.

If no better, lever the ring out with catspaw tools, or whatever you can devise. 

Easier if the rotating points assembly is off out of the way. It’s held in a tapered keyed central hole in the armature, retained by the central screw.  Remove the screw and wiggle the brass part loose.

Online Ted_Flash

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Re: A 10 K2F manual advance
« Reply #3 on: 04.03. 2025 18:24 »
Looks to me as if the adjuster is screwed right out, so locking the cam ring.  Try slackening off the adjuster.
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Online Triton Thrasher

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Re: A 10 K2F manual advance
« Reply #4 on: 04.03. 2025 20:38 »
Looks to me as if the adjuster is screwed right out, so locking the cam ring.  Try slackening off the adjuster.


Yes it’s odd that the adjuster is out so far.

My previous post might be completely irrelevant, if some idiot has pulled it to a retarded position with the adjuster.

Offline mike.loehr

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Re: A 10 K2F manual advance
« Reply #5 on: 04.03. 2025 20:47 »
oddley enough the bike kicks back on starting and the left pipe has some bluing ,right pipe not so much.I will probably ending up as square one with this one.Bear with me as I will be asking a lot of questions
Mike

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: A 10 K2F manual advance
« Reply #6 on: 05.03. 2025 10:00 »
  The cams ring are two ramps, opposite each other in the cam ring so the magneto fires one cylinder,  then the other. Any variance of the position of these cams will affect the timing, and getting both cylinders to fire at exactly the same time before TDC is a tall order for something made 60 + years ago and worn, neglected, seized, abused etc. The lift on each cam is very small, but magnified by the design of the L shaped moving contact arm. Wear to this and it's pivot also contributes to a timing difference to each cylinder.

 As stated, removing the centre bolt on the contact breaker assembly allows the whole unit to pull out for inspection and maintenance. Yes, the cam ring rotates within the magneto end housing, or at least it should, controlled by the advance/retard cable. It's spring loaded to give  "slack advance", rotating anti- clockwise against the clockwise rotating contact breaker.

 My guess is that the whole ensemble is seized (good news) or bodged...not so good.

 If the simple stuff fails, then with care the end housing can be detached from the magneto body, without upsetting the cup and cone bearing setting. BSA Service Sheet 801 gives a basic procedure for the non manual advance type, so worth reading for what goes on inside, internally both auto and manual types are identical, just how they retard the timing for starting is different. Easier to do with the magneto off the bike and this may be the best way to sort it out in any case.

 Magneto is described as AC or anti-clockwise...the direction of rotation when viewed from the drive end. Look for AC on the identity plate, along with a date code. The big number is the Lucas Part Number which specifies the original LUCAS factory parts spec for that particular BSA model application.


 Swarfy.