1962 A10 GF commissioning

[Terryb]

I have just acquired a 1962 A10 which was last on the road 1988. The previous owner had SRM refurbish the engine extensively,  except for a main bearing conversion in 2021 and it was never started. The bike lived in a workshop located local to the coast and has not been touched in the last 18 months.

On inspection the bike has some external corrosion and I’ve found areas like the inside of the rocker box very dry and generally no lubricants used. Before I commission the cycle parts I would like to run the engine. Mainly to lubricate the internals.

Should I run it with flushing oil first, before I use my favoured engine oil?

[Rex]

I wouldn't, but whip off the timing case first to check that the oil pump hasn't nipped up through non-use.

[CheeserBeezer]

Definitely don't use flushing oil. The crankshaft has a sludge trap which is intended to capture deposits. If you use flushing oil you'll loosen the deposits and flush them round your engine, potentially wrecking it!

[Terryb]

Ok guys, flushing oil is out. I’ve decided not start her until I’ve clean all oil supply pipes and oil tank. On inspection the oil tank was sealed prior to painting, but it looks like Fertan has been used and it needs flushing out. Also the oil feed to the rockers needs cleaning. So on with the Marigolds and start🥴😷

[sean]

Ok guys, flushing oil is out. I’ve decided not start her until I’ve clean all oil supply pipes and oil tank. On inspection the oil tank was sealed prior to painting, but it looks like Fertan has been used and it needs flushing out. Also the oil feed to the rockers needs cleaning. So on with the Marigolds and start🥴😷

be a good idea to squirt some engine oil onto the valve gear via the inspection cover on the rocker box and drain the sump before you fire it up .

[Worty]

Sounds like a hell of a find.  Do everything you've been advised to do (clean oil tank, oil lines, remove sump plate and check gauze, oil pump - can inspect dynamo chain at the same time, oil to rockers, etc).  I reckon if you're removing the rocker inspection covers you could have a look at valve clearances and you could stick some new plugs in it.  Also worth checking the primary chain tension and oil level, and operate the clutch a couple of times to free stuck plates.

Fuel and carb would be my next focus, after such a long layup, there may be gunk in the carb and the tank, including the taps.  Should be pretty much there after that.

[Swarfcut]

 Removing the PRV with a good fitting socket (you may have to slim down a standard sized one) reveals two holes into the crankcase. The Centre one leads to the timing bush and the oilways to the crank and big ends. Upper hole leads to the cam trough. Give both a good dose of oil from a pressure oilcan.

 Anti wet sump valve prevents backflow to the oil pump, (this trick will not prime the pump if the valve is good) so timing cover is well worth removing to ensure the pump is not seized. Removing the pump allows access to the oil gallery to the timing bush, so pumping oil down this one is another way of ensuring bearing surfaces are primed. Expect the dynamo chain to be running in grease. You need oil to also be in the gearbox and primary chaincase.  Absence  almost par for an unknown find.

 A slug of oil down the rear tappet cover hole lubricates cam, followers and pushrod lower tips. Take care moving the crank, plenty of lubricant down the bores and slow and steady to start with...no jumping on the kicker.

 Swarfy.

[trevinoz]

If the bike has never been started I wouldn't put too much oil down the bores. It might be a good idea to  have a look at the bores with a camera.
Too much oil will hinder ring bedding.

[berger]

give it a compression test and if it gets above 125 or even 150psi fire it up . make sure oil is returning with bubbles of air in the flow i would . if it doesn't fire up give it to me i have a spare bit of floor it can stand on and a field to ride it on  regards the pump seizing it won't be seized once it's kicked over it will be fine or broke, i left my bike for that long in one place the back tyre had perished on the wall and one exhaust valve had corrosion because there was no exhaust on it and moisture had attacked it. fire it up don't be scared , or strip it completely and send me all the parts , 

[KiwiGF]

Take plugs out, engage gear, push it around until oil is seen returning into the oil tank. That gives peace of mind if nothing else…..

[Rex]

Probably give you very sore legs and back if you push it that far!
10 secs of engine ticking-over would probably equal half a mile of heavy bike pushing..

[KiwiGF]

Probably give you very sore legs and back if you push it that far!
10 secs of engine ticking-over would probably equal half a mile of heavy bike pushing..

Its a better method than kicking it over, about 50m was enough to get the oil flowing on mine.

[Triton Thrasher]

There is more or less always a pool of oil in the bottom of the crankcase of a parked BSA.

Kicking or pushing the bike until oil appears in the tank return, only shows that the scavenge system is working, and has sucked oil from that pool.

I’d be more reassured by seeing some evidence that the feed side of the pump works and is sending oil to the crankshaft.  How about removing the pressure relief valve and looking into the cavity, while the engine is turned over a few times?