Author Topic: 2 questions  (Read 740 times)

Offline Brandis

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2 questions
« on: 27.01. 2023 19:30 »
Sorry, guys.  I'm back to waste your time.
After 3 wrong crankshafts I got the crankcase all together.  Thanks to you guys.
Question #1    The 1/4" rod that pushes to release the clutch.  I'm going to make one.  How long is it in the early bolt-on transmission?   Should I round and temper the ends?
Question #2     The fiber/cork (?) disk that looks like a haphazard fit on the outer face of the camshaft drive gear. Besides coming to pieces and gumming up the oil flow, why is it there.  I don't think Roy Bacon addresses it.  It looks pretty useless.

Now I'm trying to imagine what the top engine stay looked like.  Fits up under the studs that hold the front rocker cover on.  I've seen some on Ebay but They look like they would be fro a later model.   All y'all have a good weekend.
47 A7

Offline muskrat

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'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline Brandis

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Re: 2 questions
« Reply #2 on: 27.01. 2023 20:53 »
My book has 67-356 as a camshaft.  But not to worry.  I can make one.  A photo of one of your engines might make it look a little closer to factory.
47 A7

Offline muskrat

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Re: 2 questions
« Reply #3 on: 27.01. 2023 21:00 »
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
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Offline Swarfcut

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Re: 2 questions
« Reply #4 on: 28.01. 2023 11:03 »
    Camshaft endfloat is represented by the differing dimensions of the faces of the bushes in the gearside case, compared to the step in the cam and the rear face of  the camshaft drive gear. There should be a minimum of float with the drive gear tightened down.

   Wear to the bush faces and the back of the drive gear, along with manufacturing tolerances can contribute to too much float. Also this is critical for positioning the cam correctly in relation to the followers, and more so on a Longstroke with the narrow width to the cam lobes. However, when assembled, the breather bush presses on the cork washer, which must be thick enough to be lightly compressed against the cam drive gear, which in turn bears on the outer face of the outer cam bush. So when set up correctly there is no float on the camshaft, as the drive gear is held against the outer bush.

 If making a clutch pushrod, indent the ends to match the ball on the clutch arm and the tit in the centre of the pressure plate. Pushrod is part 67 3183.

 Swarfy

Offline Brandis

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Re: 2 questions
« Reply #5 on: 28.01. 2023 13:45 »
So . . .
. . . the outer face of the magneto drive gear has a pin that prevents the cork disc from spinning.  The pin sticks out further than the cork.

The middle timing side case piece has a steel face with a hole in it.  The hole is the same size as the pin.  But the steel face does not spin.  Is it supposed to lock into the the pin and spin?  And the cam shaft has no drift as installed.  So, I don't get it.   If there's no drift in the camshaft, what's with the cork and pin that sticks out beyond the cork ??
This thing is gaslighting me.
47 A7

Offline RDfella

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Re: 2 questions
« Reply #6 on: 28.01. 2023 15:41 »
Quote
If making a clutch pushrod, indent the ends to match the ball on the clutch arm and the tit in the centre of the pressure plate.

Er, not the former. Clutch arm end needs to be flat with just the sharp edge removed, as the clutch arm ball slides across that face.
'49 B31, '49 M21, '53 DOT, '58 Flash, '62 Flash special, '00 Firestorm, Weslake sprint bike.

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: 2 questions
« Reply #7 on: 28.01. 2023 16:28 »
 Correct RD, at least as manufactured. A concave surface to match the arc of travel and pick up on the ball is the ideal. Don't forget that little bit of free play for you folks with pushrods that wear. That's my take on it, works for me.

 So Brandis can get some respite, here is the rest of the story.

 These engines have a timed breather, in other words the crankcase is only open to atmosphere when pistons are in a certain position. The breather duct runs across the crankcase, exiting above the gearbox sprocket. Late engines it's just a hole, earlier engines originally had an extension tube down to the sump plate, late plunger bikes the tube is short, oil mist directed onto the chain.

 Now the clever bit. The peg on the cam gear locates into the breather bush, which looks like a top hat. This bush rotates in the inner timing cover, opening and closing the drilling which connects to the breather duct. The peg drives the bush, so everything is timed up back to the crank. The cork washer keeps the breather bush against the timing cover and acts as a seal so that oil mist can only enter the breather via the small hole on the outer end. Breather bush, cork washer and cam gear rotate as one.

 From the description  of a steel face it sounds as if the bush is seized solid, and it will take every trick and skill to free it off without damage. The bush changed slightly over time, but the set up is the same as on later engines and there are plenty of pictures and viddys on the web.

 Swarfy.

Offline Brandis

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Re: 2 questions
« Reply #8 on: 28.01. 2023 18:59 »
That makes sense on the breather.  But it proves again that, left to their own devices, old school Brit engineers will find a complicated solution.  Certainly compared to my old M-20.
I have the assembled crankcase and transmission in the frame.  Now it's down to a hundred details.
There are no timing marks on the gears but I'm sure the Forum covered that somewhere so I'll be a big boy and find it myself.  And I have to unseize the auto advance.  70 years of sitting is not recommended for BSAs.
47 A7

Offline RichardL

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Re: 2 questions
« Reply #9 on: 28.01. 2023 23:19 »
My book has 67-356 as a camshaft.  But not to worry.  I can make one.  A photo of one of your engines might make it look a little closer to factory.

If one was not paying attention, one might have thought you were saying you could make a camshaft. Good on you, then *work* *lol*!

Richard L.