Alloy Sump plate and gauze filter?

[berger]

i found that to use studs with the ally sump plates the end fins had to be machined away a bit for the nuts to fit, better to do this than use the allen screws.

[Joolstacho]

My sump plate has plenty of room for washers and nuts. And supplied with it are 4 nice studs, and nuts with reduced size across flats.
You know, I always need a good reason to attempt to remove studs that may have been in for decades. **it happens!!! May be best to leave the studs in.
Still interested to find out about the magnetic plug and ball, and also height of gauze (see my previous post).

[Greybeard]

i found that to use studs with the ally sump plates the end fins had to be machined away a bit for the nuts to fit, better to do this than use the allen screws.

Yes, don't use screws. Removing screws a few times will loosen the threads in the crankcase, then they'll strip or just leak. Studs 1/4" Whitworth to 1/4" BSF, (?) are a much better option. I used the studs and nuts designed for the rocker cover inspection plates. The studs are a bit longer and the nuts have a plain section that cleared the fins on my sump cover.

[Greybeard]

... Still interested to find out about the magnetic plug and ball, and also height of gauze (see my previous post).

I've never had a problem with magnet and sump pickup ball. You could make sure the magnet is on the opposite side to the pickup pipe.
The guaze may be a bit lower than the original design but I don't see that as a problem.
Actually, I think my guaze had a raised shape, so not much actual difference in height.

[muskrat]

G'day Jools.
The gauze plate only goes on one way but the sump plate can be turned 4 ways. I have mine with the plug facing forward. One to get the magnet as far away as possible from the pickup, two for ease of getting to the plug. Never had a problem like that.
Some sump plates have the plug central so there might be a problem there.
Cheers

[chaterlea25]

Hi Jools,
I think the plate with the soldered on gauze could be from an Ariel Huntmaster twin ??
Yes I did have a problem with a BSA single I rebuilt with the ball sticking
I reported the issue to the maker/supplier at the time
I heated the sump plug to soften the epoxy and pulled the magnet and replaced it with a weaker one

John

[Joolstacho]

I wonder why BSA bothered to make a domed shape gauze filter if a simple flat one would suffice.

I'm 99% sure this is NOT an Ariel one, it was on my A10 motor, with every sign of being original. Whist it was shagged, (having been used in a grasstracker), it was very original.

[CheeserBeezer]

The original item was soldered into the sump plate and was never intended to be replaced because it's gauze and can be washed out. It's easier to make as a domed item because the cut edges don't need to be trimmed off as they sit in the solder. The domed shape also gives it some flexibility so the manufacturing tolerances can be a bit more generous. The replacement flat items only just cover the tip of the suction pipe, particularly if the crankcases have been resting on the pipe, as they sometimes do in storage. Anybody who has an original domed item might as well keep using it if it's in good condition.

[Joolstacho]

2 options...
1: Make a tool to press a dome shape into the gauze. then use 24hr epoxy to glue it into the alloy finned plate recess. No other option really for a brass to aluminium joint.
OR...
2: I could make a slightly shallower dome turning into a flat that can then be sandwiched between 2 face gaskets. Like the Fecked one but with about an 8mm dome.
Probably this is the better option in that I'd need less 'draw' in the pressing, and not relying on Epoxy Glueing.

[Richard Hinton]

A wire mesh filter is available that sits between sum plate and casing. Try classic bike bits.

[Joolstacho]

Yes Richard, perhaps read back through the thread eh?
Duuuurrrgh!