Author Topic: SRM clutch  (Read 14684 times)

Online chaterlea25

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Re: SRM clutch
« Reply #150 on: 18.03. 2022 00:45 »
Hi All
The thrust washer was introduced afaik when the clutch hub lip was done away with and the innermost plate
changed to a friction sitting at the back of the basket, this change meant that when the clutch is being released the pressure is on the chainwheel  not the hub

I modified a friction plate to slide over the hub lip as I had fitted an SRM adaptor
however I still got some clutch slip when the engine hit 4.5k rpm
I now have fitted a solid hub instead of the shock absorber type and a 7 plate conversion
I do not have a lot of miles on this yet but it seem's a bit "grabby"
I assembled the plates dry but wonder if I should have very lightly oiled them?

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline BagONails

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Re: SRM clutch
« Reply #151 on: 18.03. 2022 12:56 »
Hi John,
Your set up sounds quite different to mine, the only hubs I've seen without the lip is the A50/A65 version. That too runs a thrust washer as you have described. Sorry to hear you still had slippage after fitting a new clutch. 

Here's a ref to the assembly photo on SRM site which shows the last closing plate being plain steel under the ally pressure plate. This clutch has 5 friction plates and 6 plain steel. If there is a plain steel at the top of the stack then there must be one at the bottom (against the lip).
http://www.shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product/triumph-pre-unit-4-spring-clutch-solid-centre-drum

The SRM hub for A7/A10 SA models with 4 spring clutches is this one
http://www.shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product/centre-drum-4-spring-type-a7-a10-swingarm
and it looks exactly the same as my Feked solid hub (made in England!) with a lip at the rear.  I bought the standard plate stack from SRM (5 friction plates and 6 plain steel plates).

RogerSB put up a very good write up on his assy with a schematic showing where all the bits go. You can find that at reply #98 in this thread. The thrust washer is there but it goes to the rear of the basket between it and the adapter flange. You can see from his photo how much bigger the flange dia is to take the thrust washer. I guess it just takes up a lot of that excess clearance that allows the basket to wobble even when the hub is snugged up tight and the center nut is fully tightened.

So you would have 7 friction plates and 7 plain ones I gather if the first one is a friction plate at the rear against the basket. That would give you a lot more grip and I guess more grab but the spring load is spread over more area so maybe not....  I remember checking to see if I could possibly load another pair of plates into my set up but that would not have worked!  The point about oiling the plates is interesting. Maybe a bit of oil would improve the feel and perhaps this does occur over time as there is hot oil mist around the plates the whole time she's running.  My new plates were bone dry, grey and furry/fibrous to the touch.i.e. very grippy.  The old ones were black shiny and appeared to have absorbed oil over time yet they were not wet with oil. They felt a lot more slippery to the touch.
Ian
59 GF A10
67 Spitfire under resto
2013 kwaka W800 Desert Sled (ex write off)

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Online JulianS

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Re: SRM clutch
« Reply #152 on: 18.03. 2022 13:52 »
Converted my SRM clutch to 7 plate using Aerco plates.

First fitted an alloy chainwheel - the steel one was a bit worn, then filed off the lip off the hub (like the 1966 on A65 setup) it is quite soft. Then fettled the sleeve, the chainwheel and thrust washer so excess drag eliminated.

Inserted plate in first.

Thought about using a steel chainwheel but decided against it as the rivets used in the riveted assembly chainwheel/basket appeared to sit proud and slightly uneven to the chainwheel and I was concerned the plates might not sit squarely.

Works fine no grabbing but can take some force to free it off on the kickstarter first use of the day.

Online chaterlea25

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Re: SRM clutch
« Reply #153 on: 27.03. 2022 13:57 »
Hi All,
BON, some of those "grey" plates are grabby  as fu#k  *eek*

Previously I had cleaned up the bottom of the chainwheel slots so a friction plate sits flat, it does not move relative to the chainwheel  so don't worry about the rivits.

I bought the 7 plate kit from Burton bikes ,
The plates are thinner and have smaller friction area, but still barely fit into the
chainwheel
There's no hint of slip with the 7 plate conversion  *smile*

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Online berger

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Re: SRM clutch
« Reply #154 on: 27.03. 2022 14:08 »
just to add , there's no hint of slip with a 6 spring if you want to crack brazil nuts between the finger and thumb *lol*, i'll get my coat i'm going to the pub again, it's my 11th birthday..... 11 years since i died in the front room.. sunday 27th march, my thunder rods were made on the 27th march also, very freaky.... glad to be here though *beer*

Offline RDfella

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Re: SRM clutch
« Reply #155 on: 28.03. 2022 10:02 »
Many happy returns, Keith. *yeah*
'49 B31, '49 M21, '53 DOT, '58 Flash, '62 Flash special, '00 Firestorm, Weslake sprint bike.

Offline BagONails

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Re: SRM clutch
« Reply #156 on: 29.03. 2022 09:33 »
.... glad to be here though *beer*

Bloody hell Berger well that is certainly a good excuse, if I could, I'd go to the pub with you. I have a mind to open an ale now in your honour...cheers, long life and happiness to you! *beer*

Hi All,
BON, some of those "grey" plates are grabby  as fu#k  *eek*

John

Well they are in there now John and I don't plan to buy any more so I guess I'll have to get to like them!  There was plenty of what looked like bronze material in the mix so I'm hopeful they will improve with use.  I'm going to try backing off the spring pre-load a little in the hope that a lighter action will make it easier to feel the bite point.

What do they call it?  - 'modulation' yes I think that is what I need!
Ian
59 GF A10
67 Spitfire under resto
2013 kwaka W800 Desert Sled (ex write off)

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