Author Topic: Wheel centralisation  (Read 665 times)

Offline simmsy53

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Wheel centralisation
« on: 18.07. 2021 11:19 »
I’ve had the wheel on and off several times but can’t seem to get it centralised! I’ve bounced the front end as in the handbook to get the left fork leg to find it’s place on the spindle. What am I missing?? Should the wheel fit further over the brake assembly?

Online berger

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Re: Wheel centralisation
« Reply #1 on: 18.07. 2021 11:40 »
all i know about this is when i had mine built up a very long time ago it sat about the same as yours. i had to have the spokes altered to pull it it over 3/8ths of an inch. the man who built it said he had done hundreds and was surprised i needed it altering. i checked it all with a length of angle iron from back to front and once he pulled it over it was perfect.

Offline bsa-bill

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Re: Wheel centralisation
« Reply #2 on: 18.07. 2021 15:43 »
it takes a very little adjustment of the spokes to shift the wheel over, when I did mine it was half a turn on the spokes did the trick (slacken on side tighten the other)
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Online Rex

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Re: Wheel centralisation
« Reply #3 on: 18.07. 2021 16:43 »
Was the wheel central before you removed it though?

Offline simmsy53

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Re: Wheel centralisation
« Reply #4 on: 18.07. 2021 17:28 »
Unfortunately that I’m not sure of. Bike has been in bits for last ten years at least. I’m just finishing putting it all back together. I’ve done nothing to the wheel during that time.

Offline Swarfcut

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Re: Wheel centralisation
« Reply #5 on: 19.07. 2021 08:22 »
 Is it me, or is that spindle showing more thread than usual and the backplate slightly more proud of the drum?  Could we have a bike with incorrect  width yokes for that wheel? I reckon a check for the right parts and correct assembly could be the answer.  Just because that's how it came is no guarantee that it was right to start with.

 Swarfy.

Offline Greybeard

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Re: Wheel centralisation
« Reply #6 on: 19.07. 2021 09:21 »
When I'm dressed I'll pull my bike out of the shed and take some pictures of the front end and post them here.

Later:
It might not be obvious in the photo but the torque arm has a slight dogleg.
The centre of the tyre is central to the fork legs
Greybeard (Neil)
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Offline BagONails

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Re: Wheel centralisation
« Reply #7 on: 19.07. 2021 11:54 »
Is it me, or is that spindle showing more thread than usual and the backplate slightly more proud of the drum?  Could we have a bike with incorrect  width yokes for that wheel? I reckon a check for the right parts and correct assembly could be the answer.  Just because that's how it came is no guarantee that it was right to start with.

 Swarfy.
That torque arm seems to have a slight kink in it too now you mention it Swarfy unless its the camera angle plying tricks?
Ian
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67 Spitfire under resto
2013 kwaka W800 Desert Sled (ex write off)

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Offline Greybeard

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Re: Wheel centralisation
« Reply #8 on: 19.07. 2021 12:16 »
It's so hot here, (24°C) I'm having trouble seeing these pictures due to sweat running into my eyes!
It was probably a lot hotter under my carport. 😳
Greybeard (Neil)
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A Distinguished Gentleman Riding his 1955 Plunger Golden Flash

Offline bsa-bill

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Re: Wheel centralisation
« Reply #9 on: 19.07. 2021 12:28 »
Quote
It's so hot here, (24°C) I'm having trouble seeing these pictures due to sweat running into my eyes!

yep busy giving my last shed a makeover before getting the RGF in for a makeover too, Saturday it was 32.4 in the shed, a little cooler outside but not much.
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline Jules

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Re: Wheel centralisation
« Reply #10 on: 22.07. 2021 12:59 »
Mine was similar offset too, lots of threads in here earlier about it I remember, reset it myself after "talking" to the forum and it worked out fine....just careful, very small adjustments at a time, no more than 1/4 turn at a time is the secret, I seem to remember  *good3*