Author Topic: Nut and bolt  (Read 3788 times)

Offline 1KCBC

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Nut and bolt
« on: 10.10. 2006 06:17 »
Where can I get nut and bolt set for A10? And what about the stainless
steel bolt set.

Jaran
1951 A10GF,(looking for  A10 swinging-arm)

Offline a10 gf

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Re: Nut and bolt
« Reply #1 on: 11.10. 2006 11:48 »
Hello to Thailand! SRM has some stainless allen sets for a10.
http://www.srm-engineering.com/Miscellaneous2.pdf?img

Regards
Erling


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Offline dpaddock

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Re: Nut and bolt
« Reply #2 on: 12.10. 2006 03:21 »
I don't know of anyone putting up sets of fasteners. Nevertheless, Walridge has fasteners for sale.
www.walridge.com
David
'57 Spitfire


63a10r

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Re: Nut and bolt
« Reply #3 on: 13.10. 2006 02:33 »
howdy from texas. barefoot ed here. in my 25+ years of ridin the queens iron,on nearly  as many different examples, this a10r im puttin  up is my first with whitworth fasteners. (i suggest that mr. whitworth and mr. lucas were partners in crime. one can only imagine the late nite conspiracy-conversations that took place between  the prince of darkness and the king of busted knuckles)
anniehoooooo, my last triumph, of 13 years, was an epiphany after a fashion. i discovered that i could replace all but the most critical fasteners with grade 8 alllens. after a long day at the hardware store, i discovered that someone (map?) had done all the footwork and put together a motor kit for triumph unit engines. and it ends there.  "for a bsa? hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahh"
my point? does anyone know a source for such a thing? i know there are some case bolts that have the british pitch,  but it is only the convenience of using american sized tools for maintenance that i long for.
a firm in england used to build a bike called a wooler. they built an engine they called a rocking beam 4. (no crankshaft) its front fender sported a wrench. that was their  "hood ornament" their engine could be gutted with the  "hood ornament"
 (tho they conveniently ignored the fact that the spark plug needed a deep well socket, i have to say, "im impressed!" i went to great lengths to duplicate that dream, tho my "hood ornament" would have been a set of allen wrenches and a 13/16 socket.
help.

Offline a10 gf

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Re: Nut and bolt
« Reply #4 on: 13.10. 2006 03:12 »
From the SRM catalog mentionned above:

ALLAN-SET-01 Allan primary set A7/A10 swing arm ..£10.14
ALLAN-SET-02 Allan outer timing cover set A7/A10 ..£9.37
ALLAN-SET-03 Allan inner timing cover set A7/A10 ..£1.97
ALLAN-SET-04 Allan gear box set A7/A10 .. £2.75
ALLAN-SET-05 Allan rocker box set A7/A10 .. £3.38
ALLAN-SET-06 Allan primary A7/A10 plunger .. £8.60
ALLAN-SET06/SS Allan Primary set A10 Plunger Stainless steel .. £13.37

Sure some other suppliers also has sets.

Regards
E.


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Offline Pollock

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Re: Nut and bolt
« Reply #5 on: 13.10. 2006 03:59 »
I remember a while back...I think it was British tools and fasteners maybe who was selling complete sets. I did a pretty thorough search trying to find it a while back and came up with nothing.

Let me know if anyone finds it....

Pollock

Offline jfligg

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Re: Nut and bolt
« Reply #6 on: 14.10. 2006 13:54 »
Hi Guys Some engine nut and bolt set come up on Ebay UK.  There is also a place in the UK called Barllrycorn there stuff looks really nice.  Thier website is .http://www.barleycorn.co.uk .  I hope the link works.  I have not bought anything from them, but I will.  Jeff

Offline dpaddock

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Re: Nut and bolt
« Reply #7 on: 18.10. 2006 01:11 »
OK.
First, the good news (for US and Canada owners, anyway) is that fasteners threaded into A7/A10 aluminum components are INVARIABLY Whitworth, for which the direct substitution is UNC, a coarse thread available at your local Ace/TrueValue/local hardware store in socket head (Allen), hex head, Philips head, etc. Zinc plated, stainless, brass - you got it. So, don't go laying out good funds for overseas stuff. Calibrate a piece of coathanger wire to find the depths of the various holes, paying particular attention to "blind" holes.

"Bad" news: Fasteners threaded on and into the non-aluminum components have no substitute. The head bolts are BSF (3/8-20) and the rest are CEI (typically 26 tpi) plus a few BA screws in the electrical pieces. (One peculiar application, however, is the brake spindle (both) which can take a 7/16-20 UNF nut.)

If in doubt, use a thread pitch gage to determine the fasteners particular to the hole/spindle in question. 
David
'57 Spitfire


Offline fido

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Re: Nut and bolt
« Reply #8 on: 18.10. 2006 17:38 »
Using UNC bolts into BSW holes is a bodge as the angles are different. If you have to get cycle parts fixings from UK or Brit bike specialists you may as well get them all from the same supplier.

Offline dpaddock

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Re: Nut and bolt
« Reply #9 on: 18.10. 2006 22:41 »
C'mon, Fido; 55 vs 60 degree thread angle doesn't amount to anything, especially in aluminum. I've done this for years without ANY problem.
David
'57 Spitfire


Offline fido

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Re: Nut and bolt
« Reply #10 on: 19.10. 2006 09:12 »
I'm just pointing out that it is not best practice. For one thing, the spanner sizes will be different so you will need to carry AF and Whitworth spanners in your toolbox. I'm just as bad in that respect though. I've replaced most of the nuts and bolts fixing non threaded components with stainless steel metric ones at a fraction of the cost of cycle thread parts.
I used to design custom made taps for Larcher brand tools so I am perhaps a bit more fussy than most people about such details  *spider*