Ok now that we all had a good chuckle, I'm glad I could do that for you all, I got the $hizzas with the original switch, so bought the new one #31-340, and as I expected the wiring was way different;
So the question is; ¿¿ if I go buy a replacement switch As per the one on DragAnfly p/n# 31-340 ......, how does the wiring code differ
....Thanks for the input.
Positive or neg earth does not change the wiring
; was aware of that, but thanks anyway
So, moving on, it's been a education.
I've done some forum searches and found one the other day that had a similar issue, but after several beers, I can't find it, so if this sounds familiar let me know.
I installed the new switch, but the only way I could get the taillight to work with headlight on was to use a diode between Poles 2&4; headlight>tail/city/park/town/sidelight (call'em what you will), as per pic.
Everything was initially ok, but I didn't get to venture after dark for a bit, and when I did have to use the lights, the onboard Volt-meter went spazzo down to ~2-3V...and the amps stayed -ve @~5-6(A) -ve .
Otherwise charging appeared to be normal
I wasted a few hours +++ sussing it out, and had a positive result, but don't know how.
I disconnected everything and measured stuff, and swapped this and that, substituted a spare battery, and then it worked
.
Went for test spin 20Km, and lights on, onboard V-meter says 6.~ V at rest, 7-8ish V @ road speed(spikes a bit more), cuts out/in @~6.0v idle-plus, so all seems ok for now.
Is there a better way to wire the light switch? The only poles that appear to do anything are 2,3,4...
nonetheless, it works for me- for now