Author Topic: Mainshaft taper  (Read 2184 times)

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: Mainshaft taper
« Reply #15 on: 30.01. 2016 22:24 »
Hi Lee,
I got  the 43 tooth sprockets from "sprockets unlimited" in the UK

www.sprocketsunlimited.com/

The bearing will mostly be housed in the sprocket,
maybe you can incorporate the adaptor ring into  the bearing retaining plate?

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline Rocket Racer

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  • A kiwi with a racing A10 rig and too many projects
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Re: Mainshaft taper
« Reply #16 on: 31.01. 2016 02:10 »
astrosprox@btinternet.com

I got my blank sprockets from these guys in the UK. (6 years ago) they had 43 tooth 428 blanks in steel and dural.
My bearing goes into the sprocket. If you look at my basket you'll see the bearing is not in the basket, the basket bolts to the sprocket and bearing housing.
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand

Offline coater87

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Re: Mainshaft taper
« Reply #17 on: 31.01. 2016 05:35 »
  The sleave I am making will house the bearing and attach to the basket. Then the basket will be bolted to the sprocket. So 6 fasteners total, three each.

 Now I am a little concerned with chain alignment, because it will affect some decisions for sure.

 On the four spring adaptor, there is a build in washer. I need a dimension from the clutch side of the washer to the transmission side of the sprocket so I can build this close to being aligned right from the start. Would anyone have this dimension or be able to get it easily?

 I know on the 6 spring its close to .600,  but I have no idea on the four spring... *conf*

 Lee
Central Wisconsin in the U.S.

Offline coater87

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Re: Mainshaft taper
« Reply #18 on: 31.01. 2016 08:18 »
 I think I may have found the answer to this question on a site for British bike bits. They have a picture of a four spring with adaptor installed and it looks like the adaptor butts up right to the sprocket, which makes things easier.

 Does that sound correct to you guys?

Lee
Central Wisconsin in the U.S.

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: Mainshaft taper
« Reply #19 on: 31.01. 2016 21:17 »
HI Lee,
Quote
it looks like the adaptor butts up right to the sprocket

Yes in the standard clutch..

When using the the wider R22 beariing the shoulder on the 4 spring adaptor needs to be machined back as in the photo,
(The 1.9mm is for a 9mm wide bearing so R22 is wider by 0.5mm so needs 0.25mm more removing)

Machining back the adaptor shoulder brings the sprockets back into line
The bearing is centered in the sprocket, ie, the bearing sticks out an equal amount each side
The retaining plates are recessed to accomodate this

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline coater87

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Re: Mainshaft taper
« Reply #20 on: 02.02. 2016 00:25 »
John,

 That is one of the things I did not like about the clutch pictures I have seen- that the bearing is centered inside the sprocket but still protrudes on both sides.
This is why I am trying to sleeve the sprocket and basket, the bearing will be entirely supported. At this point I believe the outer race of the bearing will be a light press fit/ tight slip fit held with a snap ring on each side.

 This should also let me line everything up, then cut the snap ring grooves which should set the final alignment. Hope that makes sense.

 One other concern I have, is basket wobble. Will I need to make some type of disk that will rub on the sprocket to keep it straight when the clutch is pulled in , or not?

 Lee
Central Wisconsin in the U.S.

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: Mainshaft taper
« Reply #21 on: 02.02. 2016 13:42 »
Hi Lee,
THe bearing is a good tight push fit onto the adaptor, theres a hardened washer outside it when using the R22 bearing (a radial needle roller thrust washer 35mm id x 1mm thick)
The inner drum is clamped tight to this assembly by the clutch centre nut and & thick washer or a specially made nut with intgral washer
The outside of the bearing is clamped in place by the retaining plates
So the only "wobble" will be the clearance in the bearing

I wonder if adding to the thickness of the assembly to incorporate snap ring grooves will lead to clearance problems at the rear of the clutch???

John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)