81
Frame / Re: Clutch perch (mount)
« Last post by Sunbeam on 16.12. 2024 20:10 »Many thanks for your advice. ..Howard.
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82
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Sump plate studs
« Last post by CheeserBeezer on 16.12. 2024 19:46 »When I fit these, I enlarge the four holes on the sump plate and use tappet cover nuts so their sleeves reach into the sump plate. The tappet cover nuts will then thread onto the original studs. I skim the nuts down a bit so they are a bit slimmer.
83
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Sump plate studs
« Last post by limeyrob on 16.12. 2024 19:30 »My gut says studs are better, even with helicoils I'm wary of unscrewing in ally but reality is it should never come off so I've ordered some cap heads as a stop gap. Plan is a bleed nipple in the drain with tube into a jar - I can leave it open and close it before riding off after I've poured the oil back in the tank. Well that's the plan.
I'm looking for simple reversible mods that have less risk of me forgetting and can't seize the engine if I do. At the moment I drain the sump before a ride but its a tapped 3/8 BSC plug in the steel plate and there's not a lot of thread. The brass drain in the ally plate is much nicer than I expected so i may just file a flat on that 2 turns in so i just undo it 3 turns to drain.
My absolute biggest fear is messing up the helicoils and screwing up a case. Plenty of tea and thought before the first metal comes off!!
I'm looking for simple reversible mods that have less risk of me forgetting and can't seize the engine if I do. At the moment I drain the sump before a ride but its a tapped 3/8 BSC plug in the steel plate and there's not a lot of thread. The brass drain in the ally plate is much nicer than I expected so i may just file a flat on that 2 turns in so i just undo it 3 turns to drain.
My absolute biggest fear is messing up the helicoils and screwing up a case. Plenty of tea and thought before the first metal comes off!!
84
Amal, Carburation / Re: rich on one side
« Last post by muskrat on 16.12. 2024 18:39 »G'day Mac.
Same as the enricher (choke) on my Keihins on the Cafe. I got rid of the buttons and put cables on. Make sure there is slack in the cables when their in the off position.
Cheers
Same as the enricher (choke) on my Keihins on the Cafe. I got rid of the buttons and put cables on. Make sure there is slack in the cables when their in the off position.
Cheers
85
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Sump plate studs
« Last post by groily on 16.12. 2024 18:37 »Is this an SRM-like one Rob? Theirs are supplied with capheads, or were, but studs 'n nuts (two of, or nylock or those steel ones with grippy tops) have to be better. The drain plug on theirs is quite accessible if the plate is fitted with drainage in mind, no need for a bleed valve I wouldn't think. I quite liked my SRM one after I'd ditched their screws. Studs are an easy 'make' if you've got a die or two and a bit of 1/4" round stock. There may be off-the-shelfs that would do, dunno.
Good luck helicoiling the c/case threads . . . Bike laid over on side? Or up in the rafters? Need 'em in straight, or the thicker plate will argue with you on its way on and off.
Good luck helicoiling the c/case threads . . . Bike laid over on side? Or up in the rafters? Need 'em in straight, or the thicker plate will argue with you on its way on and off.
86
A7 1946-1950 / Re: A7 compression
« Last post by muskrat on 16.12. 2024 18:30 »G'day Jock.
I agree with TT. You need a young fella to give it 10 good hard kicks with the throttle wide open to get a close reading of comp. I don't have figures to hand but it would be fairly low comp at about 6.5:1.
Cheers
I agree with TT. You need a young fella to give it 10 good hard kicks with the throttle wide open to get a close reading of comp. I don't have figures to hand but it would be fairly low comp at about 6.5:1.
Cheers
87
A7 & A10 Engine / Re: Sump plate studs
« Last post by berger on 16.12. 2024 17:25 »a car brake bleed nipple? , golly gosh have you a day spare to let it drain 
88
A7 & A10 Engine / Sump plate studs
« Last post by limeyrob on 16.12. 2024 17:07 »OK I've got an alloy sump plate I want to fit because its got a nice big drain plug.
Its about 5/16 thicker than the steel one so I'll need longer studs.
Part is 31-0222 which is listed as 1/4 BSW x 1/4 BSC x 7/8"
Does anyone know of a longer stud - around 1 1/4"?
I'm thinking perhaps one of the oil pump studs?
Its all a bit of a faff as I'll have to helicoil the crankcase threads in-situe as I know at least one is on its last legs. Once helicoiled I could go for 1/4 Whit cap heads but I'd prefer studs.
Plan is to drill and tap the drain plug on the new sump and put a brake bleed nipple in so its easy to drain the wet sump oil into a tube and jar. Looks do-able as the plug is at 45 deg on the rear so there's some space.
Plan is to lay the bike over, stuff the engine with clean rag then drill, tap and helicoil then flush with brake cleaner.
Its about 5/16 thicker than the steel one so I'll need longer studs.
Part is 31-0222 which is listed as 1/4 BSW x 1/4 BSC x 7/8"
Does anyone know of a longer stud - around 1 1/4"?
I'm thinking perhaps one of the oil pump studs?
Its all a bit of a faff as I'll have to helicoil the crankcase threads in-situe as I know at least one is on its last legs. Once helicoiled I could go for 1/4 Whit cap heads but I'd prefer studs.
Plan is to drill and tap the drain plug on the new sump and put a brake bleed nipple in so its easy to drain the wet sump oil into a tube and jar. Looks do-able as the plug is at 45 deg on the rear so there's some space.
Plan is to lay the bike over, stuff the engine with clean rag then drill, tap and helicoil then flush with brake cleaner.
89
Frame / Re: Clutch perch (mount)
« Last post by Rex on 16.12. 2024 16:08 »If quality and a good fit of the ear are what you want then Feked aren't the boys for you.
They sell the same Taiwan junk as every other Ebay chancer.
They sell the same Taiwan junk as every other Ebay chancer.
90
Frame / Re: Clutch perch (mount)
« Last post by groily on 16.12. 2024 15:46 »Not sure if the bit in the pic is Amal or other, but 7/8 brake and clutch levers for air and A/R can be had 'for BSA, Tri, Norton etc' from eg
https://www.britishbikebits.com/clutch-brake-air-lever-assembly-7-8-bsa-triumph-norton?gQT=1
Not sure how close a match to what you have though.
I use Doherty ones myself, with or without ball ends depending on age of bike. Decent-ish quality - which not all levers are, as the amount of flex in the mounting shows on second-rate stuff when pressure is applied. The 'ear' that abuts the 'bars on the loaded side of the pivot piece has to be a snug fit against the 'bars. Some of what's out there leaves a gap, which you can see reduce and increase as you operate and release the lever. Not good.
There are quite a few suppliers.
But not sure (as the pix aren't clear always), whether some / all / any have threaded holes on the 'perch' or are plain for a shouldered ferrule. Pix and descriptions don't show / say clearly.
Versions for mirror mounting are also available if required, Feked seem to have them.
https://www.britishbikebits.com/clutch-brake-air-lever-assembly-7-8-bsa-triumph-norton?gQT=1
Not sure how close a match to what you have though.
I use Doherty ones myself, with or without ball ends depending on age of bike. Decent-ish quality - which not all levers are, as the amount of flex in the mounting shows on second-rate stuff when pressure is applied. The 'ear' that abuts the 'bars on the loaded side of the pivot piece has to be a snug fit against the 'bars. Some of what's out there leaves a gap, which you can see reduce and increase as you operate and release the lever. Not good.
There are quite a few suppliers.
But not sure (as the pix aren't clear always), whether some / all / any have threaded holes on the 'perch' or are plain for a shouldered ferrule. Pix and descriptions don't show / say clearly.
Versions for mirror mounting are also available if required, Feked seem to have them.