The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: Hughsie on 03.03. 2025 19:34
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Hi all
I’ve read a fair bit about improving my Ariel hub front brake. It’s not totally hopeless - ish, I really need the liners replaced with a better quality.
But if I was just to look for a better replacement wheel with a different brake and keep the Ariel hub for another day. (I do like the look of it)
What would someone recommend that’s a good brake and is fairly easy to find.
Is there a complete wheel that would swap right on to my forks?
(Note.. a keen eye might notice I was missing a mudguard support nut! Fortunately I noticed that as well and replaced it)
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If you change the wheel you would have to change the fork sliders.
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Not 100% sure but a plunger half width hub may fit?
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That does look like a very similar set up Morris.
Thanks for the
Photo
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That Ariel brake lever looks to be ready to pass the magic 90 degrees.....you won't be getting maximum leverage on the limit. Simplest option is to see if the cam lever can be adjusted on the cam, then new linings.
Single sided 8" brake is considered better, but as Trev says, the sliders along with the complete wheel assembly will be required, as the spindle mounting is different.
Swarfy.
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Single sided 8" brake is considered better, but as Trev says, the sliders along with the complete wheel assembly will be required, as the spindle mounting is different.
Swarfy.
Right… forgot about the spindle
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Hi All,
The Ariel owners club made some twin leading shoe brake plates for the alloy full width hub some while ago.
It might be worth checking if they still have any?
John
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Hi Hughsie, I feel your pain. We can swap if you like, my front brake is pretty useless too!
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Last time I checked, the AOMCC spares did not have any of the limited batch of TLS brakes left.
The 7" FWH Ariel brake has always been a disappointment to me.
Check that the handlebar brake lever is 7/8" between centres; this will ensure maximum force exerted on the brake cam lever.
Cheers,
Richard
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My brother had a Bonnie with conical hub brake which was very effective, his son also had the same brake on his bike which was useless. They swapped brakes over but my brother's was still good his son's still useless until they swapped handlebar brake lever over. Who'd had thought.
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Interesting point regarding the brake levers, thanks. I’m not too sure what levers are on mine. Any recommendations for the best replacement levers?
Also I didn’t know about the 90 degree cam adjustment. Should I be adjusting the cam on the wheel downwards a touch?
Great info as usual forum.
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Hi Hughsie,
I dont think you can move the Ariel brake arm on the shaft??
But you have an adjuster on the pivot end to jack out the shoes towards the hub, this should restore the position of the cable lever to its correct position
John
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Just looked closely at the parts catalogue and Drags' offering. There appear to be two variants of the hub brake lever, one with a fixed lever and loose cam, or fixed cam and loose lever! Solving the problem of getting something big (the cam) through a small hole....
Either way in this case the lever and its relationship to the cam looks to be fixed, and as CJ suggests, if full available adjustment does not restore the lever to a lower starting point, it's new shoe time. The lower the better, within reason, as the hub lever should end up just before 90 degrees to the cable with the brake applied good and hard.
Swarfy.
Additional. Part 42 5573 pictured on Drags' today does not exactly inspire confidence, but could explain poor brake performance...only joking, but makes you think. If the hub is the type with loose cam, this is available, and replacement can also improve matters, fitment looks to be a straighforward swap.
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Looking at the parts bulletins 4P, titled "New components for1956" and dated November 1955 lists the assembly with a loose cam, 4S also titled "New components for 1956" but dated March 1956 lists the assembly with cam and shaft in one and loose lever.
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there are a couple of people in the Ariel club that have converted that front wheel to hydraulic using old mini wheel cylinders and making it a TLS brake and it works, sore one of the conversions at the stafford show a few years ago.
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Hi All,
The original alloy brake plates can fail (break) when the brakes are upgraded, which is not a nice experience *eek*
I saw this on an Ariel some years ago *sad2*
John