The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Bikes, Pictures, Stories & more => Introductions, Stories, Meetings & Pictures => Topic started by: Big_Ben on 05.01. 2022 18:26
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Edit: Hi Folks, I'm going to keep this thread going as a cumulative record of the tear down, research and eventual build up.
Edit: Both engine and frame numbers seem to confirm 1949
Original start:
Hello, thought I'd introduce myself as I'm sure to have a bucket load of questions once I get down to the rebuild.
I've just bought a non standard A7, possibly 1949, but tbc. It's fitted with modern wheels and forks.
Although I think the anodized gold sucks, I quite like the bulky aesthetic. However once the bike is finished, I'll need to sort a UK registration for it so I may put it back to standard trim as I love the old black and silver reg plates and I'd get a Q if I tried to reg it in this trim. Maybe a period build, but all TBC.
Once I've got the bike home, I'm going to take stock of what I've got.
Keep safe everyone, Poppy.
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Nice to meet you and good luck!
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Great intro, with luck you could sell the forks and wheels and use the proceeds to pay for originals (albeit you may want to get a better, period, BSA front hub/brake 🤭).
Thats very thick looking gasket material on the engine!
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Thanks for the heads up on the gasket material. Hopefully I can avoid a full engine strip, but I'm certainly going in with my eyes wide open.
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Thanks for fine intro ! Welcome aboard, hoping the forum will be of great help.
ps. excellent quality photos.
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*welcome*
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Thanks for fine intro ! Welcome aboard, hoping the forum will be of great help.
ps. excellent quality photos.
Ah, as a practicing artist I do take a damn fine photo, but... these were done by the seller!
*smile*
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Those idiots don’t half mess up some bikes!
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Thanks for the heads up on the gasket material. Hopefully I can avoid a full engine strip, but I'm certainly going in with my eyes wide open.
Personally I would strip the engine, but it does look like there is chance its a runner, what with the oil pipes connected up, what looks like a new carb etc.
In NZ the easiest option to get an unregistered bike back on the road and registered is get the key parts back to standard for the frame (suspension/brakes/wheels) but your call obviously.
I think the engine is the early “long stroke” version, did you know that?
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I reckon an engine strip would be essential, given the oozing gasket goo!
As customs go, that's not too bad in my opinion but what a odd bike to pick to mess up given the relative rarity of engine parts.
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I think the engine is the early “long stroke” version, did you know that?
I was told that by the seller, but I've not yet had time to research or understand the implications of that information.
"The frame looks good it turns out its a 49 frame and a 48 to 50 long stroke engine so they are period to each"
Is that (long-stroke) information of importance because of it's character or just spares etc?
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I reckon an engine strip would be essential, given the oozing gasket goo!
I've had a multitude of bikes over the decade, and I've done many an engine strip and rebuild, but never on a Brit or something this old.
I have no doubt that at some point I will have to delve inside the cases, but if at this time I can get away with an inspection that is what I'll do.
I'm a little nervous vis a vis the skills required that I may not (yet) have.
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I think the engine is the early “long stroke” version, did you know that?
I was told that by the seller, but I've not yet had time to research or understand the implications of that information.
"The frame looks good it turns out its a 49 frame and a 48 to 50 long stroke engine so they are period to each"
Is that (long-stroke) information of importance because of it's character or just spares etc?
The long stroke engine was relatively short lived and consequently certain parts are hard to source compared to the later engines. On the plus side (at least in NZ) the long stroke bikes are rare and more valuable.
For example I have in a box of spare parts a pair of early fork legs from an early A7 rigid, these only have one mudguard bracket/lug (dumb design!) but all the later fork legs have two (one for the rear stay, one for the front stay) details like that can make building a “correct” bike time consuming (sometimes expensive).
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For example I have in a box of spare parts a pair of early fork legs from an early A7 rigid.
Good to know, thank you.
I didn't know the A7 went back as far as a rigid frame. After a quick google, I have to say they're pretty damn cute!
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For example I have in a box of spare parts a pair of early fork legs from an early A7 rigid.
Good to know, thank you.
I didn't know the A7 went back as far as a rigid frame. After a quick google, I have to say they're pretty damn cute!
and there were even two types of long stroke rigid A7, one had a single piece frame, and one a two piece (bolted together, (like the plunger frame....I think).
I guess the point is, if you do decide to make bike “correct” you will have to do quite a bit of research to find out what parts were fitted to the particular year you decide your bike is.
The very early a7’s also had odd size headlights (8”?) and wider yokes, all hard to find.
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For example I have in a box of spare parts a pair of early fork legs from an early A7 rigid.
Good to know, thank you.
I didn't know the A7 went back as far as a rigid frame. After a quick google, I have to say they're pretty damn cute!
and there were even two types of long stroke rigid A7, one had a single piece frame, and one a two piece (bolted together, (like the plunger frame....I think).
Hi and welcome aboard. The 2 part frame started in 49 when there was the option of rigid or plunger frames. The front section was the same, they just bolted on the correct rear section for plunger or rigid. The forks also changed in 49 to the front and rear stay lugs on the sliders as mentioned earlier. Prior to 49 the front and rear wheel had been QD (quickly detachable) and interchangeable which meant different fork yokes as well with a wider gap.
Here are a couple of pictures of the 49 rigid I used to own before, for some mad reason, I moved it on to make way for another bike in the shed.
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Hi Poppy. It's certainly a parts bin special you have there. The frame is the later two part bolt up jobbie as outlined by BikerJD, so all the later tinware and appropriate forks and wheels will fit and are still available with a choice of new, repro or used.
The engine is the real problem. Parts for this are not as rare as folks think, but certainly some parts will take some finding or a bit of lateral thinking and adaption, all par for the course in a normal custom build. The gearbox looks to be a standard Plunger Frame type from a post 1951, so internals for this are readily available.
For starters you need the front engine mounting plates....these are unique to the Longstroke Motor. You also need a dynamo, and the drive chain for this is not the standard length used on the later models. Some of the gaskets are different, notably head, rocker, cylinder base and timing covers. The major castings, crank, rods, pistons all differ from the later design. Oiltank looks to be the correct shape, but sadly the correct mountings have been butchered. The oil feed is the one from under the tank, from the big banjo fitting which is secured by the outlet filter. The return is the pipe visible on the front (now side) of the tank. This pipe normally has a T off for the rocker feed.
Swarfy.
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Thank you for that, especially for being so specific.
I'm mechanically minded, but this is new territory for me, so please everyone feel free to spell stuff out!
*smile* *smile* *smile*
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Take some time to explore the Forum. There is a huge amount of information available along with real life experiences of what such a simple design can do to cause sleepless nights, exasperation and mental anguish to even the most hardy soul. Then there's the Longstroke......!
Arrange finance now and dig out Grandad's Spanners. Modern ones don't fit.
Welcome along.
Swarfy.
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Hi and welcome!!
Zooming in on your pics it looks like untrimmed gaskets poking out rather than goo ?
I see that there are those soft crap insulating spacers on the inlet manifold
Best got rid of in my opinion as they can easily distort the carb and manifold!!
Get a solid tufnol spacer for the carb and paper gaskets between manifold and head..
The oil tank is turned 90 deg for some reason?? So you cannot check the oil return easily ??
John
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I've got to say, at my stage of life I would not have bought this bike even if it was cheap. I would want to restore it to original spec and that would be a bum-ache! 😁 Good luck with it.
It is vital that you search here and on YouTube for the term 'sludge trap' ASAP.
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I have a freshly restored airhead BMW, so this is a toy for tinkering with.
I doubt I'll put it back to standard, but maybe more period (forks etc).
At the moment, it's a choice of two routes although that may change as I start to delve into what I've got.
a) Most likely, semi-period bobber build, period registration number. Nothing silly, maybe a lary paint job.
b) Q plate, change the colour of the gold anodizing to something more fitting. Sort out the badly done bits and ride the bugger.
c) Full restoration to standard - highly unlikely.
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b) Sounds good to me. Get the pipes blued and the engine sorted before you spend a fortune chasing rare cycle parts. You can't see the number plate when you're riding it. Will also be nice to have good brakes whilst your checking engine and frame for straight etc.
*welcome* *beer* *doubt*
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Welcome Poppy
What a contraption you have there !……..hours of fun whatever you decide to do with it
S
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Gday Poppy,
I think it looks great. The original bikes were called 'grey porridge' for a reason. That things got character.
I'd leave the brakes, seat and front forks as is. They are way better than anything BSA ever made.
Your electrics are the biggest challenge.
or just paint the forks black, stick on a small alloy front guard and ride it like you stole it.
cheers
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I don't think I've ever heard of the A7/10 bikes being referred to as "grey porridge" before *eek*
Mundane ride-to-work 250's maybe, but not a BSA big twin.
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Ha ha, lots to consider.
Definitely a key point here is that I'll need to get it registered.
Pre '73 (?) bikes came used a black and silver or black and white number plate, then they switched to yellow and black.
I'd need to fit it with semi-standard wheels and forks to get an age related registration and plate, even if I then changed it back to the modern gear. If I try to register it like this, I'll have a Q plate which I think means age unknown / multiple doners etc. Q plates are to be avoided if at all possible.
At this time, top of my concerns is to get it registered with an age related number.
Either way I've a lot of work to do on the beast.
Anyone UK got a set of forks and wheels they want to lend me?
*smile*
Also... Grey porridge!
*eek*
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Considering that even my humble plunger has a very pleasant performance I cannot agree with the description that our bikes are 'grey porridge'. 🤔
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I'm just having a closer look at the set up. All looks newly assembled, with possibly a brand new carb, new nuts and at least a nicely cleaned up set of castings. Maggy looks to be a good example, a late type with screw on end cap, not the usual oily battle scarred example often found. Nice kink on that oil return to the tank.
Big BUT here is that to fit the right hand plate and dynamo strap holding pins (simple 1/4" bar with Whitworth thread at one end) the inner timing cover has to come off, and to fit the right hand front mounting plate the whole engine and gearbox must be lifted and swiveled to position the plate. An engine crane or 6 hands should do it. Then you can replace the timing covers.
GB mentioned the SLUDGE TRAP. Don't get paranoid, but this really is the single most important aspect of long engine life. Here's one I made earlier, this crankcase is the later type plunger. The plug was a devil to remove, had to get the gas axe, hence the heat mark.
Sleep well.
Swarfy
Additional. The Longstroke has a smoothness lacking in the later shortstroke motor, and with low down torque makes a pleasant cruiser. A road burner it ain't, but will roll easily solo with a 42 tooth rear sprocket and 20 teeth on the gearbox. They were dismissed as being a bit slow, as being often used as a sidecar bike, usually found with the 49 tooth dinner plate and 18 tooth gearbox cog giving plenty of low end power but a lower top speed.
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As Swarfy mentioned earlier, you'll need a set of front engine plates which are different to the later short stroke engine with the holes being in different positions. Here is a picture of plates and measurements.
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I'll have a Q plate which I think means age unknown / multiple doners etc. Q plates are to be avoided if at all possible.
Indeed. Q plates can cause issues when you're trying to get insurance and when you come to sell. As you say, avoid at all costs.
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Owner's Club can help with accurate dating information, also act as agents for authority when it comes to inspection. Frame and motor may even be a yearwise close enough match. Making the bike look original gets an historic vehicle classification, and in these crazy times this offers certain advantages.....no road tax being one along with less stringent emission standards. By my reckoning any historic vehicle no longer needs an MOT and a fume belching 1942 Tank Transporter is ULEZ exempt.....
Swarfy.
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Those tank transporters reminds me of when I worked at FVRDE in the mid 60's. We often spent time on the test track and associated facilities across the road and my abiding memory of those TT's was when they did their brake tests. Hour after hour the poor driver would slam on the brakes, the reaction to which would lift the artic tractor off the track by about 18 inches - and dump it back down again. How that never broke the 'fifth wheel' I don't know. Glad I wasn't in the cab. My favourite vehicle there was the TV1000, better known as the Rhino. Good for nearly 60mph. Remember when we were out in that and the brakes failed .......
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An engine crane or 6 hands should do it. Then you can replace the timing covers.
Thanks Swarfy
So far this is where I reach for the confused looking emoji, but I have no doubt it'll make (more) sense once I have the thing in front of me.
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Here is a picture of plates and measurements.
Thank you, much appreciated.
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As Swarfy mentioned earlier, you'll need a set of front engine plates which are different to the later short stroke engine with the holes being in different positions. Here is a picture of plates and measurements.
Is it only the hole locations being different?
In other words if I can find a set irrespective of long / short stroke, will I be able to get them welded and drilled to fit?
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Anyone UK got a set of forks and wheels they want to lend me?
*smile*
Also... Grey porridge!
*eek*
A surprising range of aftermarket parts are available eg the later fork stanchions, bushes etc, head bearings, used yokes are plentiful (albeit often bent) but fork legs appear to be hard to find. Being patient when searching for used parts is the key, do you know the key bsa parts suppliers eg Draganfly etc?
As for wheels u can start with a hub then spend up big time on new spokes and rims and tyres, and probably get aftermarket axles and bearings. 500 quid a wheel?
Small point but the rear axle looks “iffy” from memory the axle on plungers is pretty strong due to the need (at least try *conf* ) to prevent one spring compressing more than the other.
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Thanks, and especially thanks for the heads up re the axle. I'll be sure to check.
I know about Draganfly, but not about any others (yet).
I last had a BSA 38 years ago, and I never got that running properly.
Hopefully do better with this one.
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An engine crane or 6 hands should do it. Then you can replace the timing covers.
Thanks Swarfy
So far this is where I reach for the confused looking emoji, but I have no doubt it'll make (more) sense once I have the thing in front of me.
The engine and gearbox are one rather heavy lump, (hence known as semi-unit). To fit the front engine plates needs the assembly to be loosened, (don't miss the bolt underneath the gearbox) and lifted at the front. The dynamo needs to be threaded through the engine plates at the same time.
I'm assuming the details of the earlier model are the same as my 1955 bike.
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My search turned up these forks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275095249313?hash=item400cf461a1:g:ld0AAOSwgA1h2Bar (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275095249313?hash=item400cf461a1:g:ld0AAOSwgA1h2Bar), but looking at the picture in the parts book, I'm 99% sure they're not A7 / A10 because the top yoke is very different.
Am I correct?
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Poppy, Keep away from those forks, instead spend time researching until you know exactly what to buy and that the part offered is the correct one.
Draganfly have had a mention and I would endorse the use of their online catalogue, but would also add that sometimes even they can have their problems. The forum has a section for suppliers that Forum members have found to be very helpful, two of note are Priory Magnetos and Brightspark Magnetos, both run by fellas who are both enthusiasts and know their stuff.
The Longstroke Parts Catalogue along with later versions can be found in the Forum Literature Section. Later versions feature the more usual exploded diagrams, the Longstroke one is more of a parts list, but with useful and detailed line drawings of the actual parts. Roy Bacons book "BSA Twin Restoration" publisher in 1986 is one to look out for.
As always I would make haste slowly, bearing in mind all projects like this will swallow the cash as mistakes are made through inexperience with unfamiliar designs.
Longstroke engine plates look the same as normal plunger ones, but the crankcase profiles are just ever so slightly different, hence the differing holes.
For that frame you need a set of Plunger Yokes. These and the later Swing Arm type differ in the position of the turn stops on the lower yoke, and early versions of the top yoke do not have a hole for the steering lock. Fork stanchions, bushes, seals and oilseal holders are common across the range. Fork sliders all have the same bore, but differ depending on mudguard mountings, wheel hub type, torque arm arrangement, backplate stop and spindle type for starters. Headstock bearings are common across the range.
For now I'd say get it back home undercover and give it a big dose of looking at. A notebook is useful to keep track of what's where and what it all cost.
Swarfy..
Additional. Thanks to GB for more details of engine fitment. It's a lot easier with some help, it can be a good wriggle and a juggle to get all the parts in place at the same time.
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100% good solid advice there.
Thank you (Inserts thumbs up emoji!)
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The two sources mentioned do not just do magnetos. Always worth contacting them.
Re, keeping a note book. If you start to record expenses on the project, keep the book somewhere secret so your 'significant other', (if you have one) doesn't get to see it. I started to record my costs on a spreadsheet while restoring my bike. When I could see that I was going to be exceeding £4k 💷 I deleted it. Wifey would have had pups if she knew! 😱
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100% good solid advice there.
Thank you (Inserts thumbs up emoji!)
*good3*
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My search turned up these forks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275095249313?hash=item400cf461a1:g:ld0AAOSwgA1h2Bar (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275095249313?hash=item400cf461a1:g:ld0AAOSwgA1h2Bar), but looking at the picture in the parts book, I'm 99% sure they're not A7 / A10 because the top yoke is very different.
Am I correct?
You are correct, they are Ariel forks.
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Hi Poppy,
A quick search on ebay and I found a pair of fork sliders and fork yokes , same seller has a wide A7 top yoke as well (not right for your bike though)
The same forks were used across the heavyweight BSA range (more or less)
Those sliders are strictly speaking A7 or B31 for the 7in brake, it does not stop you fitting an 8in. one though
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363676875004?hash=item54acd4b8fc:g:JcAAAOSwypNhh76F
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393840146252?hash=item5bb2b3b74c:g:o0UAAOSwaQZhyEln
Nearer home for you this Australian seller has most parts for a complete front end (a bit pricey I think??)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?item=254300088589&_ssn=37plonker&_pgn=2&_skc=50&rt=nc
John
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Thank you, much appreciated.
I'm going to double check the part numbers but could be just the job.
Poppy
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The same forks were used across the heavyweight BSA range (more or less)
Those sliders are strictly speaking A7 or B31 for the 7in brake, it does not stop you fitting an 8in. one though
John
Got the fork bottoms, the yokes (not available new) and front engine mounting plates. Thank you for the heads up!
I've messaged the seller in case he has some of the mundane bits to go with the bottoms. Obviously I'll go with new springs and stanchions, but bolts, washers, spacers all add up.
Bit impetuous, but they're exactly the right thing for the frame. Carpe Diem etc. *smile* *smile* *smile*
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I've always find it's best to buy these bits when you see them offered for sale, as it seems to be an unwritten law that parts suddenly become rare and unavailable when you actually need them.
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Agree, Rex, but also those parts one already has that are surplus to requirements are curiously never of much value.
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Yep, I've found that to be true too. *conf*
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I keep buying bits, that are sitting in boxes, just in case. Spare timing cover, compete primary case, spare crank cases pistons, conrods, barrels, heads, front mudguard (still looking for a back one) fork sliders, a complete gearbox and more ( I do have two A's)
I am about to move house and am wondering what I should keep and what I should sell.
Being a single bloke, I will probably keep the lot.
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Being a single bloke, I will probably keep the lot.
Having broken up with my fiancé (it's complicated), I get to do exactly what I want!
Keep safe.
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you don't need to have break ups with a partner , you need one like mine who looks forward to all the toys coming and is logging in her diary what i do with the norbsa/ berger build in the kitchen. shame to say i haven't got as far as i would like but the toys are lining up. pub tomorrow thankyou for listening *beer*
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Hello to you all.
So.... I have the bike in my possession and of course as is always the case the list of issues is getting longer.
To start with, the side stand has snapped. The seller gave me the broken off bit. I'm going to buy a track stand and then I can remove the remainder and ascertain what's what. In the meantime, can anyone advise:
If this looks like the standard plunger side stand?
And if it is, does anyone know what it's made from? The fact that it's snapped suggests cast iron (very brittle) or maybe ductile iron (less brittle). I'm wondering whether it will be weldable (by a specialist) or whether I should just get a "new" one.
Thanks again for all your thoughts, this is going to be a long road.
Poppy
PS: Anyone got suitable back and front wheels for sale...?
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poppy looking at your remaining part of the stand it looks very much like one i bought from evil bay, a pattern part, luckily mine hasn't broke YET *eek*
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I reckon that stand is a 'modern' replacement, probably made of cast iron, which is not suitable for the job. At first I bought and cut down a side stand for a Triumph from Burton Bike Bits. Later I was lucky enough to see a new old stock genuine side stand on eBay. My bike (1955 Plunger) has the frame lug attached, (brazed?) to the bottom tube; this has to be a better system than the clamp type. Whatever you do, try not to buy a cast iron stand. 😬
PS: It looks like the primary chain and clutch has been modified on your bike.
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100% agree on cast iron; I make sculpture from it, but never ever anything structural.
OK - dodgy side stand, another thing to shop for!
Re: Modified tensioner, are you able to be more specific?
I have the parts book, but the pictures are so bad it's of limited use.
I'm going to go and look through my other books.
Keep safe.
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Poppy... Sit yourself down and think on this.
For starters the plunger side stand with the brazed on frame lug was introduced with the 1953 model year. Yours is a clamp on aftermarket type and as such carries a high degree of risk, as to its source. From experience, made in India from old Oil Tankers as numerous bikes on their sides testify. Keep well away from these. A good genuine original Plunger Centre Stand will be expensive but more practical and a good deal safer.
The primary chain looks to be a single row type. WRONG. Duplex chain, duplex clutch wheel, duplex engine sprocket and an unlined tensioner are standard. The tensioner looks homespun, but rather cleverly done. This set up is possibly a Swing Arm or other make (Norton?) lash up, so more pictures of the primary side and obviously worn Clutch will help see what's what. First one I've ever seen like this, might even be a World First. Gearbox mainshaft type could also be suspect, depends on the clutch centre type used.
As for wheels, it depends on what Fork legs you have to match. Sorry to bear bad news, but the bike ain't as it should be.
Draganfly's online parts catalogues are worth a look, parts diagrams and pictures of the actual bits in most cases..
Swarfy.
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The genuine side stand is quite delicate looking.
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A side stand was available as an optional extra - would have cost you an extra 15 shillings plus tax back then. It came with a bracket to clamp on the frame. You can see it in the 1949 parts book on the forum but have added the pages below.
Bracket part 67 - 4880 was specific to the twins and the leg 65 4735 common to the four strokes in the range.
Both very rare to find originals.
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Thanks all. I've emailed some pics to Draganfly who are speculating that the clutch is pre commando Norton.
TBH, I don't intend this to be a show pony, so long as it works, I'll be happy.
As regards the fork legs, I have what are supposedly plunger fork bottoms, I'll take some pics and post those later or tomorrow.
Keep safe, Poppy.
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Poppy's Bitsa BSA enquiry continues...
Any ideas on the source of this tank?
So far Bantam and Harley Sportster have been suggested but I'm not convinced...
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G'day Poppy.
I'd guess 60's BSA/Trihard with the seam down the center like that.
Best to put questions in their appropriate sections, this question being Frame. Start a new topic.
Cheers
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OK. Thanks. I was trying to keep it simple and all in one thread but easy to do.
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I understand this topic might best go elsewhere,, But chking profile, I dont see it resurfacing. Not looking to add insult to injury for mods... But to answer your question on the petrol tank,, gas tank to us Americans...
I have the exact same tank, as well as a number of other period fiberglass tanks, trackmaster, cafe, etc etc...
Some of which get the period-patina crowd all worked up in a hot lather...
I can send off list, or post a series of pix in misc off topic if there is interest,, But I DO have an exact version of that tank, albeit, not the cool gas cap. My understanding is its a period aftermarket tank availible via period vendors and shops. DommiRacer also trade name "Accessory Mart" in Ohio, had stuff like it back in the day, MAP cycle in Florida also a well known catalog company. I have some period catalogs, and ads from magazines.. lots of old magazines had ads for these types of things in them and takes some sleuth work but you can often ID the maker,,, I have 2 others where the manuf put their business card under the resin and embedded into it., I can post some pictures of this,, interesting small companies no one seems to have heard of.
I am especially interested in period accys and theres currently a lot of excitement about early accy parts, racing, cafe, custom and yes..... CHOPPERS!
For example, I was just talking to a friend today advising him on a 1962-3 BSA A10 project he is purchasing. On the rear fender is one of those dreadful limp sausage tail lights. He couldnt care less if its a period accy or a modern repop.. BUT, and in fact he likes it better than the stock license plate mount and tail light..
But I told him at some point to check.
The repops dont say anything or say Made in Japan,, But the original accy tail light casting says "Made in England" and THOSE are worth a small fortune to the patina hipster crowd. AND to period customizers.. Even BSA importer in Nutley New Jersey peddled them with a period Bates headlight and bracket as part of a
BSA "Lighting accy kit" and those are highly coveted today. * i have one of these kits and using it on my BSA Goldstar scrambler.
I got a cool set of period Bates seats as well, Doesnt mean much to the rivet counters and OCD bolt polishers but for "Survivor Bikes" with period custom accys,, Its very exciting. Funny thing is, its stuff people thought to be rubbish and threw away, now? $$$$$$$$$ Who knew? Heck I have tossed some of that stuff myself, had no idea people would have wanted it these days.
As to your "Bitza Bobber" I think its cool, just needs some work to be functional, and often orphan parts can be put together to see another classic on the road instead of sitting hidden away. I wont cut up or customize a stock bike, but do appreciate seeing fun bikes on the road.
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Cool stuff, thank you.
So, checked with Muskrat and I'm going to keep this thread here as a cumulative story on the tear down and build up.
Specific questions will be posted in the right place on the forum and then replies / decisions summed up here.
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So... thanks to Facebook, there's been a bit of progress on what the running gear is.
The front wheel, forks, rear wheel and brakes are from a Sinnis Apache Pulse Lexmoto Adrenaline (125 / 200).
Never ridden one, not sure I've even seen one, but hey, progress is progress...
Still planning to convert back to original running gear, maybe temporarily, maybe permanently.
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Hello to you all
So day twelve of covid positivity, yay! *sad2* But at least I'm out of bed.
A few updates.
Firstly, took the gearbox cover off, and yes it's the later type spring (AFAIK) and yes, it's broken.
Everything else seemed to be in OK or even very good condition, even the gasket faces!
One unknown is the gear that forms part of the non-return clutch "Kickstart ratchet pinion" I think. It works, but seems to have a few sharp edges, maybe an uneven wear pattern?
Apart from that, a bit more metal sludge than I'd like, but no lumps or chunks.
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More pics / bits
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Took the timing case cover off, and all looked to be OK apart of course from the complete lack of dynamo and attendant bits.
After 12 days being good it's Friday night and I decided I deserved a beer, so cheers to you all and thanks for the support.
One day this bike is going to be amazing!
Skål!
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Good example of the early flat top teeth profile on the kicker quadrant. Like Musky says a replacement pinion must be the same tooth profile. Later versions have pointy teeth and can be swapped as a pair. Mixing the profiles will jam. Replacement spring is readily available, same across the range from it's introduction.
Make sure all locating dowels are not holding castings apart, all blind holes are clean, without muck and oil at the bottom. Also worth clearing internal threads with a cheap Whitworth tap, and checking retaining bolts (1/4" Whit) for the timing cover do not bottom. Do not take anything to be correct.
Crank nose locking nut and oil pump drive have a left hand thread. Dynamo drive gear is fitted with a small cork washer underneath. This eliminates float on the idler gear shaft. Often overlooked, this will quieten mysterious tappings from the timing gears. With the cover off, oil pump can be checked for free rotation. If it's solid, it will have to come off and be freed up. Do not force it. The Mazac body will be damaged.
Ignition timing is done in the same way as outlined in one of today's posts.
AF spanners won't fit, forget them. A good adjustable spanner is far more useful. Spanners sizes listed should cover most fastenings. Most threads on fastenings are CEI but the hex size is BSF/Whit. Threads into alloy are originally Whitworth.
Swarfy.
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Thanks Rex. I did have some issues finding the right tools, but I've now got some more (specifically whitworth) combination spanners on order.
The bike is a total bitsa, or to to phrase it another way, if it went to the Dr, it's medical file would cause the table to break and eyebrows to be raised.