The BSA A7-A10 Forum
Technical (Descriptive Topic Titles - Stay on Topic) => Frame => Topic started by: RDfella on 13.09. 2018 19:45
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In the near future I'll be changing an 8" full-width front hub for a full-width with flange ( ie one with wider shoe area and spokes not the same each side). Believe it's late A10 or A65.
Can someone post me a pic of said wheel, so that when I get around to it I can lace it correctly? Thanks.
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BSA and Triumph FW hubs are virtually impossible to lace wrongly as the spoke points to the relevant rim dimple. Just make sure you have the correct spokes and it'll be fine.
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Rex - not on the flanged one, I'm afraid. Backplate side spokes could go virtually anywhere.
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Can’t help you with a picture but you may get some information from these people;
https://www.central-wheel.co.uk/
I have been dealing with them a couple of times and they are very helpful
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Have found a pic of said wheel online - it's T120 or late A65. I see the spokes on the brake side are not ideally located. Would be stronger if the spokes crossed three instead of two, so I'll be doing an alternatice lacing pattern. Might have to ease the dimples to suit. For maximum strength, the angle between the spoke and a line between the hub hole and axle should be as near 90 degrees as possible. Don't understand why so many wheels are not. Maybe it's the old bottom line thing - the maker saves a couple of pence on each spoke because it's an inch shorter. It's also weaker.
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Here's the lacing pattern referred to:
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Rex - not on the flanged one, I'm afraid. Backplate side spokes could go virtually anywhere.
Hmm, I get what you're saying, but if you have the correct length spokes they'll only reach (possibly) two dimples and one will be clearly incorrect.
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Some more views of the flanged hub laced into a 19 inch rim.
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Rex - yes, but most of the wheels I've built over the years have been non-standard, and so I usually do a mock assembly with four spokes each side (using old spokes) and then order spokes of appropriate bend / length. Now I know how these wheel assemblies are usually laced, I plan on moving the spokes one hole on the drum side, which will necessitate spokes around an inch longer.
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You obviously have a lot of experience lacing wheels, and I definitely don't. That's the disclaimer. Now I can say, "Dude, it's fine."
Richard L.
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Thanks to all. Here's a request: taking the accompanying pic, could someone with this type of wheel (ie of the kind posted by JulainS) measure the distance XY for me? ie from the base of the nipple to the hole for the adjacent spoke? That way I could order the spokes before I start, as the length I'll need is XY plus the length of the nipple.
Thanks,
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Hard to measure accurately with brake plate position. From edge of piercing in rim dimple to centre of hole in hub flange is about 150 mm.
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Rex - yes, but most of the wheels I've built over the years have been non-standard, and so I usually do a mock assembly with four spokes each side (using old spokes) and then order spokes of appropriate bend / length. Now I know how these wheel assemblies are usually laced, I plan on moving the spokes one hole on the drum side, which will necessitate spokes around an inch longer.
Im interested in all the details of this. I’ve currently got a 19” wheel with 8” single sided A65 brake that I’d like to fit into a new 21” s/s rim. I’ve got new spokes suitable for a std 7” brake and a new 21” rim, which I bought before I was lucky enough to find the 8” brake and wheel at a reasonable price.
I was thinking I could shorten the new spokes I have and fit the 218nch rim, but the threads I understand have to “rolled” not “cut”.
Is it practical to DIY spoke threads? (I’ve got a lathe). Or must they be ordered in the correct length like RDFella is doing.
Pic is of the 19” wheel with 8” brake.
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They are indeed rolled not cut. CWC are good at working out custom spoke lengths though.
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I was thinking I could shorten the new spokes I have and fit the 218nch rim, but the threads I understand have to “rolled” not “cut”.
Is it practical to DIY spoke threads? (I’ve got a lathe). Or must they be ordered in the correct length like RDFella is doing.
The stainless spokes I ordered for the plunger's front wheel where about 5 mm to long on one side. (made a mistake in determining the correct length)
By chance had a suitable die so I cut 5 mm of extra thread and cut the excess off. Never had any problem with them.
Rolled threads may be stronger but I don't see the point when using brass nipples... *dunno*
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G'day fellas.
I threaded my own stainless spokes for the plunger 34 years ago and the A7SS racer 26 years ago. I bought a thread roller to do the job but after 160 spokes the rollers were buggered.
Cheers
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G'day fellas.
I threaded my own stainless spokes for the plunger 34 years ago and the A7SS racer 26 years ago. I bought a thread roller to do the job but after 160 spokes the rollers were buggered.
Cheers
Thanks muskrat, I now know what they look like. I may get one anyway, as it’s much cheaper than getting someone else to fit the rim with new spokes.
Found this pic of the whole machine. I think it’s for DIY use only as it would be time consuming!